The Charlotte Observer

Anderson's, a Charlotte fixture since 1946, is closing so the owner, Gary Anderson can have more time with family and focus on his catering business.

Anderson's, a Charlotte fixture since 1946, is closing so the owner, Gary Anderson can have more time with family and focus on his catering business.Andersons, a longtime Charlotte power-breakfast restaurant, is closing as owner Gary Anderson follows his grandfather's sickbed advice.

"Life is a flash," George Kastanas told Anderson shortly before he died in the early 1990s. "Don't get to that point and look back and regret what you didn't do."

He also advised: "Don't lose time with your family because you're a prisoner to your work."

For years, Anderson has risen at 4 a.m. and worked 12-hour-plus days. Now, approaching 50, he wants more time with wife Michelle and their children, ages 6 and 10. He's closing the Elizabeth Avenue restaurant his father and two uncles opened in 1946, a modest brick building where he's worked and hung out all his life. Nov. 18 will be the restaurant's final day.

Anderson will continue his flourishing catering business at the site.

The loss comes with the exit of other longtime Charlotte eateries, The Coffee Cup and Athens Restaurant. But it also comes during a period of rapid growth that has served up hundreds of new restaurants in the city.

The Athens closed in September, and Coffee Cup operators have a mid-December deadline to vacate. In both cases, property owners want the sites for development.

Several years ago, developers announced big plans for the area around Andersons. The neighborhood, near Presbyterian Hospital, dates to the early 1900s.

Anderson bought his building and land in 1997 and says he's not closing under pressure from developers to sell.

"Nobody has made an offer, and I haven't approached anyone," he said.

He told workers of the closing Thursday. Pam Scott, a waitress with 29 years at Andersons, was dropped-jaw shocked. But she and others surprised Anderson with good wishes.

"He needs time with his family," said Scott, 54.

Anderson hadn't been sleeping well, agonizing over putting about 15 people out of work. He was relieved by their support. Today, he'll face customers, many multiple generations.

"It's those faces you see every day, those relationships you've built," he said. "It's hard to give up."

Independent and personal

Charlotte's restaurant scene has grown with the population. There are more than 2,000 sit-down restaurants in Mecklenburg County, according to the county health department, which inspects eateries. That's up 44 percent from 10 years ago.Sales of food and beverages have nearly doubled, to $1.8 billion, said Mohammad Jenatian, president of Greater Charlotte Hospitality & Tourism Alliance.

To be sure, new independent restaurants have helped fuel that growth. But Charlotte also has seen many chain newcomers, from fast-food burgers to high-end steakhouses.

"There are definitely a lot more franchise restaurants in Mecklenburg County than independents or local restaurants," Jenatian said.

The big players typically have deeper pockets, more staff and bulk buying power that cuts costs. They also have known names that help lure customers.

"The little guys often build a business, ... work it as long as they're physically able to," said Catherine Rabb, a Charlotte restaurant owner who teaches at Johnson & Wales University. "I think sometimes they close because they are small."

The little guys are often more personal, places like Andersons where customers are all called "honey" or "sweetie." They are the neighborhood joints where the same people gather at the same booth every day and pour their own coffee. During busy times, Gary Anderson hustles from the pie cabinet to the register, totes dishes, always greeting customers, often by name, shaking hands and hugging.

"That's what I'll miss," he said.

His goodbye gift is a piece of Andersons signature pecan pie with every lunch order.

Catering offsets cutbacks

Anderson started scaling back in 1996, closing Sundays as he became a father for the first time. His dad, Jimmie Anderson, worked seven days a week, rarely allowing him time with his four children. Family vacations were limited to last-minute, quick trips to the beach, Gary Anderson said. And his father, who died in 1988, never took the big trips he'd talked about.

"He had great dreams he never got to realize," Anderson said.

In 1999, he stopped serving dinner as he and his wife, a Wachovia financial adviser, contemplated a second child, a son born the following year.

Cutting out big chunks of income was always a scary decision, but the catering business has grown to offset the losses, Anderson said. Catering started as a fluke in 1990. A customer, who was a sales rep, had forgotten to order food for a group. He needed 15 lunches fast. The next day, he placed another order.

The extra business was especially welcome. The economy struggled, then came the first Gulf War. Business was so tight that Anderson sometimes had to do without a paycheck.

Word spread that you could have an Andersons breakfast and lunch at the office. Catering grew to half of sales. Anderson was working even more and was frustrated to have less time with family. He was all set a few years ago to close the restaurant, but he couldn't bring himself to do it.

Anderson credits his wife with encouraging him to step back and write down what he wants from life. Now he's acting to achieve those goals.

"I want to have more control of my life, spend more time with my family and still keep the Andersons name out there," he said.

A few of his 25 employees were ready to retire, and initially, six will be with Andersons Catering, he said. On Thursday, most were hopeful they'd be among the ones chosen.

"It was a little shocking," said Anthony Jones, who started 26 years ago as a busboy and is now the head chef. "I didn't think it would happen this soon."

The catering business will operate from the back of the building, and Anderson said he's talking with prospective tenants for the restaurant area.

The catering menu will be mostly the same basic bacon-and-eggs, meat-and-vegetables -- and pecan pie -- that he's served for years. He hopes to increase catering sales by 20 percent in the next year. And he hopes to finally take his wife on a promised trip to visit family in Greece.

So far, they've only made it to Cancun -- and that was for business.

Andersons History

•1946: Brothers Jimmie, Pete and Bill Anderson opened the Mercury Sandwich Shop, serving mostly hot dogs, burgers and malted milkshakes. • 1949: Name changed to Andersons, a full-service restaurant.

•1959: Jimmie Anderson sought a catchy identity. He came up with "the world's best pecan pie," a claim still featured prominently on an outdoor sign and menus.

•1979: Gary Anderson joined his father after graduating from N.C. State University.

•1988: Jimmie Anderson died.

•1990: Anderson added catering.

•1996: Anderson closed Sundays.

•1999: Anderson stopped serving dinner.

•Nov. 18: Anderson will close the restaurant to focus on catering and gain time with family.

What Other Longtime Independents Are Saying

The original Green's Lunch on West Fourth Street opened in 1926 with nickel hot dogs. Mary Green was Charlotte's "Hot Dog Queen" and developed the eatery's trademark chili. In the mid-'70s, Philip Katopodis bought the restaurant and then sold the business in 1989 to daughter Joanna Sikiotis. He still owns the property, and Sikiotis says she isn't going anywhere.

"They're going to have to get me out of here with balls and chains."

In 1952, Speros Kokenes started what is now the Open Kitchen on West Morehead as a little drive-up, with curb service. Brother Steve joined him in 1954 and spurred a shift to an indoor restaurant with an Italian menu. The nearby football stadium and growth in the area are boosting business, delighting Kokenes' daughter, Christina Skiouris who owns the restaurant with two brothers. They have no plans to close.

"It's great, the development down here," she said.

Catherine and Don Rabb started Fenwicks Restaurant on Providence Road in 1984. She says they have no plans of stepping aside. However, she said, "You do have to think about the next phase."

A Popular Spot to Meet and Greet

Andersons has long been known as a gathering place for politicians, bankers and other big names.

"It had the brand of being the place for the breakfasts where deals were made," said Steve Luquire, who is active with the Charlotte Chamber and other civic groups and whose marketing firm represents Gary Anderson. But it was more than that, he said.

"There are so many times you went there, a place just to go and talk about ideas."

Rolfe Neill, retired Observer publisher and chairman, also spoke fondly of the eatery he still frequents.

"It's convenient," he said. "You get served in a hurry. It's good plain food. It's always cheery in there, and it's reasonably priced."

Subscribe to the Charlotte Observer